The history of Dromore Castle, County Limerick and the work of its architect Edward William Godwin were discussed here some weeks ago (see Une Folie de Grandeur, 30th December 2013). Today the focus is on what remains of the building’s remarkable interiors since every aspect of their original decoration – furniture, wall paintings, chimney pieces, stained glass, tiles, brass- and ironwork – was likewise overseen by Godwin.
It was in the mid-1860s that William Pery, third Earl of Limerick decided to rectify his lack of a country seat in Ireland where the family had long owned thousands of acres of land in Counties Limerick and Cork. Hitherto when not in England he and his forebears had occupied an 18th century house in Limerick city but this was no longer deemed satisfactory. His decision to create a new rural residence coincided with Lord Limerick’s friendship with Godwin, the two men then respectively serving as President and Vice-President of the Architectural Society in England.
An article on Dromore Castle written by Marian Locke and published in the Winter 2011 issue of the Old Limerick Journal states that Godwin thoroughly explored his prospective client’s estates in search of a site without finding anywhere he deemed suitable before coming across a small shooting lodge owned by the Earl on a piece of land of some forty acres overlooking Dromore Lake. This the architect decided was the perfect spot, ‘a dream-like situation on the edge of a wood…overlooking the water, which would reflect the castle one hundred feet below.’ As indeed it still does, Lord Limerick buying up a further 200 acres, seventy of which were covered by aforementioned water.
So the rocky outcrop on which Dromore stands, and the views offered from this position, made certain other decisions inevitable, not least that the greater part of the accommodation would face north, hardly the best way to ensure the building’s interior would retain heat, or receive much sunlight.
Access to Dromore Castle is through a gateway on the western side and immediately to the south, only accessible by first stepping outside, was the large double-height banqueting hall seen here. This still has its hooded stone chimneypiece, but the minstrels’ gallery has gone along with the pitched timber roof. A door at the far end of the hall gave access to a slender three-storey Chaplain’s Tower which on the first floor in turn opened onto south-facing battlements, concluding in the easterly corner with a small block that originally served as a bakery.
The main portion of the castle runs west to east, with a chapel located on the first floor over the main gateway; above this looms the round tower that is one of Dromore’s more unusual features. Most of the northwest corner is taken up by a stone staircase leading to the first floor where it terminates in an arched gothic window. The shape of this window is echoed by stepped barrow vaulting above the steps, one of Godwin’s most striking effects to survive.
On reaching the top of the main staircase, one turned west along a corridor off which opened a succession of reception rooms inside what, from the exterior, looks like an enormous fortified keep. Thus the entire ground floor was given over to servants’ quarters, with a typically massive kitchen occupying the central portion. A consequence of this arrangement is that the central courtyard was primarily a service area, although a door leading from the southern end of the drawing room opened onto another run of battlements, this time looking eastwards down to the lake (or west into the courtyard). Still, it must have been a drawback that the castle’s owners could not directly enter the surrounding gardens. Perhaps they might not have wished to do so, given the splendour of their surroundings. The drawing room, for example, featured an elaborately carved pink marble chimney piece (which survives, suspended in space), and arched recesses with marble columns (some of which remain in situ) beneath more carved capitals.
Meanwhile up another flight of stairs one reached a further north-facing corridor, its windows set inside deep arched recesses, off which ran the main bedrooms. At the very end of the passage, the north-east corner was given over to the countess’s bedroom which had a stone balcony providing views of the lake far below but this was an advantage enjoyed by nobody else. The third floor was given over to servants’ bedrooms and then, once more in the north-east corner one ascended to the fourth floor billiard room, something of a break with the spirit of medievalism pervading elsewhere.
Although the exterior walls of Dromore Castle are up to six feet thick, from the start it suffered from problems of damp. In an attempt to overcome this problem, Godwin designed a brick lining with a cavity of about two inches from the stonework, but to no avail. In an article on the building carried by Country Life in November 1964, Mark Bence-Jones quotes from a lecture the architect gave in 1878, that is less than a decade after completing his commission, in which he commented ‘Whenever it was going to rain…the walls showed it like a weather glass.’ Thus the elaborate murals he designed for the main rooms never had a chance of survival. At least some of these were executed by Academician Henry Stacy Marks, an artist who specialised in painting birds. At Dromore, however, the plan was for him to cover the walls of the first-floor corridor were to depict the four seasons, twelve months and day and night (complemented by stained glass windows showing the six days of earth’s creation). The dining room murals featured the eight virtues, those of the drawing room the four winds and the four elements. Alas, none could withstand the harsh Irish elements and before long all had perished. Nevertheless, according to Bence-Jones Lord Limerick was ‘extremely delighted’ with his new property, even if this delight did not encourage him to spend much time at Dromore.
According to Marian Locke, Dromore cost in the region of £80,00-£100,000 to build, and yet it was only intermittently occupied by the Limericks for fifty years. After the First World War the family effectively abandoned the property and finally in 1939 the castle and many of its contents along with the surrounding land were sold, reputedly for just £8,000, to a local timber merchant Morgan McMahon. Although he bought the estate primarily for the value of its woodland, Dromore’s new owner was so engaged by the place that he and his family carried out necessary repairs and moved in. They remained in residence until the mid-1950s when it was again sold, but this time there was no reprieve. Faced with costly maintenance and rates, the new owners removed the roof and stripped out the interior. Since then the castle has stood empty, the dividing floors long gone so that now there is no difference between those areas once occupied by master and by servant: today all are equally open to sun and rain, and all share the same patina of neglect. Yet somehow enough of Godwin’s decorative scheme lingers on. It offers a tantalising sense of what Dromore must have looked like during its all too brief, but wondrous, heyday.
Drawing of design for sideboard
Thanks for the link. I have newspaper reports of a number of pieces of furniture from the house coming up for sale at various dates. It seems the value of Godwin’s interiors was for a long time not appreciated – and now they are forever lost.
Robert are there any pictures of it in its heyday! The interiors must have been quite something.
The photographs I have seen show the interior as it was when occupied by the McMahons. I have never seen images of Dromore during the Limerick era: it may be that the family have some, worth exploring at a future date….
There is one photo from the McMahon time, and several designs for the interiors, in ‘EW Godwin, Aesthetic Movement Architect and Designer’ Sus
an Weber Soros (Ed) Yale Univ. Press (1999).
Both the Bence-Jones and Locke articles carry a number of photographs of Dromore’s interior from the McMahon era. As you say, the Godwin book published by Yale has some designs but no photographs so one cannot say to what extent these were actually carried out (for example, in the McMahon pictures, all the walls appear to be white-washed). To be continued…
Dromore Castle really is one of the finest buildings of its period in the country and ranks comfortably with St. Finnbarre’s Cathedral, Cobh Cathedral, Marino Casino etc etc. Of course it is also in a terrible state. While during a snoop about some years ago it seemed relatively robust, this wont last forever and will gradually start to unravel. Something which really cant be allowed to happen!
PS: Well done Robert on the wonderful blog. It really is a joy. You find the most wonderful things and places to cheer us up with.
Thank you for this. Actually Dromore, at least its external walls, still seems pretty robust. The internal walls, however, some of which are only a single brick thin, are more vulnerable and may not survive…
Really great work; love the photographs of the fireplaces seemingly suspended in mid air!
Thank you Michael, as always delighted to receive your approbation. And aren’t the suspended chimney pieces quite extraordinary!
Robert: I have a definite interest in the furniture that was sold when Dromore and its contents were sold @1939. Some of your commenters-see more-and-more Dromore,https://theirishaesthete.com/2014/03/03/more-and-more-dromore/#comment-4437. May I comment with the others? How to contact?
Thank you for getting in touch about this. Yes, of course you can comment further here – or if there is someone in particular with whom you wish to communicate, please let me know and I can see about putting you in direct contact. Curiously, in a house in Palermo last month I saw a piece of furniture which had been designed by Godwin for Dromore…
Thank you, Robert-The four individuals with whom you have had a chat. Namely, Archiseek, Mark Donnelly, Martin D’Alton and Frank Keohane. The is absolutely nothing commercial in my inquiry, rather I am putting together a family treatise for the benefit of my descendants. You may recall that I have a line to the Perys. I thank you, sir
You need to be in contact with a fellow called Dr Paul O’Brien who lives (and lectures) in Limerick: he is very immersed in the history of Dromore and the Perys. Please let me know if you would like to be connected to him…
Oh, my goodness, yes. The more I dig on the subject the more Pery Information surfaces. My wife wants to know if I sense a light at the end of the tunnel-I do not. Thank you sir, I would appreciate the connection.
I have forwarded him your details and hope that he will be in touch…