A Maharajah Remembers

From the exterior, the Church of the Ascension in Timolegue, County Cork looks a typically modest product of the early 19th century. The original place of worship here is first mentioned in 1291, and in the Middle Ages much of the land in this part of the country was under the control of the Barrys, subsequently Earls of Barrymore. The notoriously spendthrift habits of the final holders of this title obliged them to sell their property, which then passed into the possession of the Tonsons, the first of whom had been granted land in Ireland in the mid-17th century. They too were eventually ennobled as Baron Riversdale, and it was the second holder of that title who in 1811, with assistance from the Board of First Fruits, commissioned a new church in Timoleague as the old one had become dangerously dilapidated. The third and last Lord Riversdale died in 1861, by which time the Travers family, who lived beside the church in Timoleague House, were involved with the building. No doubt the interior was still relatively plain, because around this date some controversy arose when, as part of additions to the church – including a new chancel and vestry – a large stained glass window designed by the firm of William Warrington was installed above the altar. Opposed to graven images, the then-Bishop of Cork, Cloyne and Ross, William FitzGerald refused to consecrate the chancel unless the window was first covered with a cloth. One suspects he would not have cared for work subsequently undertaken inside the church.

In 1894 Robert Augustus Travers commissioned the decoration of the church’s chancel in memory of his wife Alice. What makes this work exceptional is that it is all in mosaic, supposedly thanks to Italian craftsmen who first laid out each section on the lawns of Timoleague House. The latter building was burnt in December 1920 during the War of Independence, and material relating to the chancel decoration was probably then lost. As a result, today the designer is unknown, but the late Jeremy Williams proposed William Henry Hill of Cork who had earlier served as Diocesan Architect for Cork, Cloyne and Ross, and therefore would have been well-known in Church of Ireland circles. Whoever was responsible displayed tremendous flair. The walls are mostly covered in abstract and floral patterns, with the Greek letters for Alpha and Omega set in oval frames on either side of the East window and elsewhere the Paschal Lamb. Meanwhile the ceiling is likewise decorated, this time a set of eight painted panels each featuring an angel carrying an appropriate text of mourning. In most churches, this might have been deemed sufficient, but more was to follow in due course.

Following the death of Robert Augustus Travers in 1904, the Timoleague estate was inherited by his elder son, another Robert. He decided to continue the decoration of the Church of the Ascension, initially in memory of his father. However, in August 1915 his son Spenser, a Lieutenant in the Royal Munster Fusiliers, was killed at Gallipoli, and so he too is commemorated in a mosaic frieze running beneath stained glass windows on the south wall. Much of the rest of the space is filled with further geometric shapes, along with stylised plants and flowers. As has been widely noted, only on the west wall does the design falter. Here above the entrance door a large panel depicts the Ascension of Christ, eleven Apostles gathered below him and a view of Jerusalem and its Temple shown behind. Both in colour and form, the result is somewhat insipid, a contrast with the boldness found everywhere else in the building. However, all the work might not have been realised, had it not been for assistance from an Indian Maharajah.

Born in 1876, Sir Madho Rao Scindia was ten when, on the death of his father, he became fifth Maharajah of Gwalior. As an adult, one of his closest friends was a man born in the Timoleague area, Aylmer Martin Crofts. The latter studied at what is now University College Cork and became a doctor before joining the British army where he saw service in Afghanistan and Egypt, finally settling in India. For the last twenty years of his professional life, Surgeon-General Crofts acted as chief medical officer for the state of Gwalior, hence his links with the Maharajah. Crofts died in 1915, and it was in memory of his ‘faithful and devoted’ friend that Madho Rao Scindia paid for the remaining decoration of the Church of the Ascension in Timoleague. Work here only finished in 1925, the year in which the Maharajah himself died. A section of the mosaic on the north wall of the nave provides testimony of his support, and the reason he gave it. His involvement helps to explain why much of the semi-abstract floral designs found in the main body of the church is reminiscent of Mughal art. As Jeremy Williams rightly noted, the building is a monument to ‘a living friendship that is being recorded in an extraordinary blend of the European and the Islamic – a hidden masterpiece of the Arts and Crafts Movement in Ireland.’ It is one which ‘transcended the sectarian divide between Irish Catholic and Protestant, The Indian Muslim and Hindu, personal friendship breaking up distinctions of caste and colour.’

In memory of the late Robert Travers. 

8 comments on “A Maharajah Remembers

  1. deb t sena says:

    Absolutely amazing. What a jewel hidden where no one would suspect and reminds me of my frustrating in planning a trip to Ireland with so little options (other than private) to explore the unique spread throughout the country.

  2. Catherine Arnold says:

    It’s such a pleasure to see the interior of this church again. I remember wandering into it, quite by chance, in about 1996 and being amazed by the beauty of the decoration–and touched by the story of the collaboration that created it. I didn’t have a camera at the time, so it’s lovely to see it again.

  3. Charles Horton says:

    Thank you for such a nice tribute to RT. He enjoyed showing the church and it’s history to many and it’s such a shock that he was taken so young.

  4. Hibernophile says:

    In addition the the unique mosaic, your musically minded followers might be interested in the fact that this church houses a very large and impressive organ. The organ makes such a powerful sound that some of the stops had to be decommissioned as their thunderous sound was dislodging tiles on the roof!

    NB. You refer to the east window which was ‘installed above the altar’. To clarify, there are no altars in the Church of Ireland. It should be referred to as the Holy Table or Communion Table, were Christians gather to celebrate the Eucharist. Although this is a common mistake to make, the distinction must be made, as it is fundamental to the reformed faith. The Church of Ireland (like other traditions which accept the reformation) believes that Christ made the one, complete and all sufficient sacrifice for sins, and therefore no sacrificial ‘altar’ is necessary.

  5. Emma Richey says:

    What a beautiful place and interesting history. Presumably still used as a church too.

  6. Olivia Howe ( nee Travers ) says:

    Thank you for dedicating this very good article to my brother, Robert.
    May I make the following corrections please; Robert Augustus Travers 1828-1904 was married to Alice . Their son was Robert of Timoleague. 1855-1935. Laura was his second wife. It was his son Spenser Robert Valentine who died in Gallipoli , and who’s name is inscribed on the tiled walls of The Church of the Ascension, Timoleague.
    Olivia Howe ( nee Travers ) .

  7. Olivia Howe says:

    Dear Mr O’Byrne, I have another piece of interesting information re the Panels on the ceiling. The eight painted canvases of the angels were recently restored as they were getting damaged from dampness in the roof. They are very interesting paintings ( not actually mosaics) as one can see each angel looks different . I am not sure the name of the artist . Well worth another visit to see the restored work !
    Olivia Howe ( nee Travers ) RT’s sister.

Leave a Reply